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& Commercial Services","Providing various support services for businesses and governments, such as research, testing, certification and consulting services, cleaning and maintenance services, security and protection services, legal, accounting and bookkeeping services, information management, data processing, and business process outsourcing services","professional_services",{"article_id":95,"industry_id":201,"created_at":91,"updated_at":16,"industry":202},"fashion_and_textiles",{"id":201,"name":203,"description":204,"sector":205},"Fashion and Textiles","Producing textile and leather products and processing them into apparel and accessories","goods_and_services",1,{"id":208,"score":131,"body":209,"status":231,"article_id":95,"created_at":141,"updated_at":149,"published_at":141},"mAAd",{"title":210,"outcome":211,"problem":212,"summary":213,"solution":214,"attachment":215},"Longer Lifetime for our Clothing: What can be learnt from the sustainable care methods found in the Indigenous Knowledge for Textile Preservation in Southeast Asia?","\u003Cp>Such collaborative studies on people, heritage, indigenous knowledge and landscape will facilitate sharing of knowledge and innovative solutions among the different communities of experts from diverse geographical regions. Indigenous communities who have been the guardians of nature have gathered an invaluable knowledge to live in harmony with nature. All their traditional practices are defined by their aim of preserving nature by sustainably using it.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>\u003Cbr>\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Can this study be an inspiration to know the ancestral knowledge in our geographical region and ethically use it to transform the textiles aftercare industry into a circular one? Each region has its own biological resources and the textile processing methods need to be adopted accordingly. Advances in technology and indigenous knowledge, if ethically collaborated, can solve the harmful impacts of the fashion industry.\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>Clothing care accounts for around 30 per cent of a garment’s total carbon footprint. Care method for the textiles reflect how long a textile can be put to use in its best quality. It is important to choose the best care method for the type of textile you own for maximum usage. Clothes end up in landfill way before they should be because they were not stored or cleaned properly. The clothes become faded or get shrunk due to over-washing. Textile washing is thought to account for as much as 35 percent of primary microplastics in our oceans.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Globally, the way we wash and dry our clothes and the regularity at which we do so is thought to account for an enormous 120 million tonnes of CO2, explains W’air. Frequent dry cleaning is another harmful practice. Today, all textile preservation practices include chemical-based methods.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Southeast Asian traditional textiles are world renowned and valued as expressions of cultural identity, from the weaving and dyeing processes to the symbolism of their aesthetics and uses. However, local knowledge and actual methods to preserve such organic material is an under-studied field.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Following the joint “Training Workshop on Contrasting Textile Conservation Methods in Southeast Asia” between SEAMEO SPAFA and Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles in November 2012, it was apparent that there are many traditional procedures and materials used in textile conservation for cleaning, storing, and pest mitigation or control. However, not much has been done thus far to gather traditional know-how and beliefs in the region.\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>The better methods we use for the aftercare of our clothes, the longer our clothes will remain in best use. A circular textile economy needs to also focus on the aftercare of the clothing which seems to be an understudied field. Frequent use of detergents, soaps and dry cleaning can ruin the clothes in a short span of time without it achieving the optimum usage.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>The process and the resources used in the manufacture of textiles widely influence the choice of processes to conserve it so that it lasts for a longer time. Indigenous cloth, produced locally using traditional techniques, have specific care methods due to which they are easily passed onto the next generations as heirlooms. These traditional textiles which are Handspun, Naturally Dyed and Handwoven can last for hundred years. They retain their original shape, strength and color because of the care expertise innovated by the indigenous people in their local ecosystem.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>\u003Cbr>\u003C/p>\u003Cp>The research project entitled “Capturing and Sharing Traditional Methods in Textile Preservation in Southeast Asia” collected data which includes plant materials and methods for wet cleaning, dry cleaning, stain removal, insect mitigation, storage, and associated spiritual beliefs. A first study of its kind, it brought together a dynamic group of textile professionals, museum experts, conservators, historians, scientists, and anthropologists, eager to research, chronicle and learn more about their own national and indigenous practices – before the knowledge is lost. Traditional methods and associated plants used in the preservation of textiles were documented in ten Southeast Asian countries through field interviews and research, and then compiled drawing from diverse fields of practice. The study also outlines how such practices can be adopted by the modern textile care industry.\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>By working with the aftercare industry, brands can educate their design teams to offer consumers lower impact choices, says Turner, of Eco-Age. But consumers also need to keep sustainability in mind as they shop. Turner recommends unblended, natural fibres that do not require tumble drying or ironing such as linen and wool. Avoiding synthetics can also help minimise the number of microplastics released during washing.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>\u003Cbr>\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Brands, detergent manufacturers, designers, artisans, makers and the communities need to work together and learn from each other's experience and knowledge to focus on increasing the garments lifespan and come up with feasible and sustainable solutions together. It is important to understand what products or processes to use for storing, cleaning and pest control.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>\u003Cbr>\u003C/p>\u003Cp> “Our Ancestors Knew Best: Traditional Southeast Asian Textile Treatments and their Place in Modern Conservation”, produced by SEAMEO SPAFA with the support of the Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles (QSMT) compiles and honours the invaluable indigenous practices for the care of textiles. These care methodologies are cost effective, locally available and ecologically beneficial for the environment and people's health. 20 local researchers and practitioners documented indigenous knowledge between 2016 and 2018. The research presented the benefits of soapnut, rinsed rice/coconut water, rice stalk/coconut palm front ash, betel leaf, tea, butterfly pea and toddy palm leaf basketry among the 62 plants identified for textile treatment.\u003C/p>",[216,219,221,223,225,227,229],{"name":217,"type":218,"value":217},"https://publications.spafajournal.org/index.php/spafapub/catalog/view/35/44/133-1","link",{"name":220,"type":218,"value":220},"https://www.seameo-spafa.org/preserving-textiles-indigenous-knowledge-and-methods/",{"name":222,"type":218,"value":222},"https://www.voguebusiness.com/sustainability/a-new-movement-to-reduce-the-hidden-environmental-cost-of-clothing-care",{"name":224,"type":218,"value":224},"https://www.scandinaviastandard.com/the-ultimate-guide-to-sustainably-caring-for-your-clothes/",{"name":226,"type":218,"value":226},"https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/new-sustainable-clothing-care-device-w-air-launches/2021060955920",{"name":228,"type":218,"value":228},"https://www.textiletoday.com.bd/dry-cleaning-practices-and-developments/",{"name":230,"type":218,"value":230},"https://www.academia.edu/34598981/Before_they_are_gone_expanded_Capturing_traditional_textile_preservation_knowledge_in_Southeast_Asia_and_Latin_America","published",false,{"id":99,"type":234,"cta":16,"cta_link":16,"created_at":235,"updated_at":236,"owner_id":83,"owner_relationship":143,"views":237,"owner":238,"image":239,"contributors":243,"article_locations":247,"article_industries":255,"view_count":237,"like_count":131,"collection_count":206,"content":269,"can_edit":232},"business_case","2021-08-08T07:49:08.152Z","2026-05-31T22:11:58.084Z",10,{"id":83,"type":84,"owner_id":83,"about":16,"job_title":16,"url":16,"linkedin":16,"email":16,"staff_of_id":16,"organisation_id":16,"organisation":16},{"id":240,"link":241,"alt":16,"source":16,"created_at":235,"updated_at":242,"article_id":99,"image_profile_id":16,"banner_profile_id":16},"9kJa4h48yHs=","https://kh-assets.prod.circularity-gap.world/main-image/1778152528748-8qbgQrLY.jpeg","2023-12-28T14:58:51.647Z",[244,246],{"contributor_id":245},"g7TTOQ",{"contributor_id":83},[248],{"article_id":99,"location_id":249,"created_at":250,"updated_at":16,"location":251},"3435910","2026-05-07T11:35:49.527Z",{"id":249,"type":185,"name":252,"color":16,"parent_location_id":253,"created_at":254,"updated_at":16},"Buenos Aires","ARG","2026-02-27T07:55:14.722Z",[256,258,263],{"article_id":99,"industry_id":201,"created_at":250,"updated_at":16,"industry":257},{"id":201,"name":203,"description":204,"sector":205},{"article_id":99,"industry_id":259,"created_at":250,"updated_at":16,"industry":260},"creative_services",{"id":259,"name":261,"description":262,"sector":199},"Creative Services","Producing and providing services that utilise the creative talent of individuals to generate intellectual property, including movies and television shows, music, live performances, advertising, marketing or public relations services, newspapers, magazines and books, and commercial printing services",{"article_id":99,"industry_id":264,"created_at":250,"updated_at":16,"industry":265},"education_and_government_services",{"id":264,"name":266,"description":267,"sector":268},"Education and Government Services","Providing public and private education and support services at any level or for any profession, and governmental and public administration services, including judicial, regulatory, and legislative activities, taxation, defence, public order and safety, immigration services, foreign affairs and the administration of government programmes","societal_services",{"id":270,"score":131,"body":271,"status":231,"article_id":99,"created_at":235,"updated_at":242,"published_at":235},"Wvvs",{"title":272,"outcome":273,"problem":274,"summary":275,"solution":276,"attachment":277},"Hecho Por Nosotros : Ancestral Wisdom for Sustainable Fashion","\u003Cp>In the past ten years, Hecho por Nosotros and animaná have impacted the lives of thousands of artisans through the ability to generate work, as well as teaching about modern design and sustainable production.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>It has provided jobs to more than 3,000 artisans by increasing capacity to 364 artisan groups and 27 fiber producers over the last 10 years. Furthermore, it created a business network of 7,500 artisans to integrate them into global markets and trained 1,500 student designers in sustainable fashion. \u003C/p>","\u003Cp>The MSMEs and cooperatives who usually work at the base of textile value chains face many technical and social barriers creating a disconnection with the global value chains. MSMEs lack market access and are not able to integrate and expand their business with the global fashion industry. Lack of transparency in the value chains lead to exploitation of many traditional textiles and indigenous communities through low wages, ignorance of intellectual property rights and no acknowledgement for work.\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>Hecho x nosotros is a non-profit NGO with consultative status in the United Nations.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>\u003Cbr>\u003C/p>\u003Cp>\u003Cem>\"A reimagined fashion and textile industry, where technology advances and empowers the business, artisans' knowledge, and Micro, Small, and Medium Enterprises—often marginalized in the global fashion economy—validating their wisdom, sustainable techniques, processes, and natural fibers, and contributing towards an inclusive model based on sustainability, circularity, and co-creation.\"\u003C/em>\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Adriana Marina.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Founder of Hecho x Nosotros\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>Hecho Por Nosotros has worked closely with textile communities and actors who are at the base of the camelid fiber value chain in Latin America to understand the technical and social barriers that these cooperatives and MSMEs face. They are working to eliminate any such barriers and bring the communities to the forefront with their exceptional traditional talents.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>\u003Cbr>\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Development of a transparent and sustainable camelid value chain : By promoting camelids fibers within the textile industry at the regional and local level and implementing sustainable business practices in the sourcing of these fibers while also strengthening community-based natural resource management.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Advocating for a sustainable fashion and textile industry based on the circular economy : Systemic change in the fashion and textile industry, thinking about garments as a whole, analyzing their entire life cycle in order to reduce negative impacts on the social and environmental spheres.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Helping with capacity-building at a regional and global level : They participate in several international platforms such as the UN, WTO, WEF, and G20. Participating in these global dialogues offers a unique opportunity to organize events at the highest political forums as a crucial tool to promote our goals.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>\u003Cbr>\u003C/p>\u003Cp>They advocate influencing the regional, national, and international leadership to put the fashion industry issues at the center of their attention and work together for a more sustainable future. They aim to achieve the following impacts:\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Economic impact: Reinvesting resources in promoting circular fashion and empowering small businesses and artisans.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Environmental impact: Promoting the production processes of camelid fibers which are 100% organic, helping capitalize the animal and plant wealth of the Andean region.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Consumer impact: Introducing new paradigms to positively change consumer behavior by creating awareness of clothes production and process.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Working together: Providing modern commercial principles to artisans and producers, help them recover old techniques, and give them the basis to integrate their business in the fashion global market.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Boosting business innovation: Incorporation of blockchain technology to guarantee complete traceability and allow the clients to build a personal connection with the artisans, improving accountability in the value chain.\u003C/p>",[278,280,282,284],{"name":279,"type":218,"value":279},"https://borgenproject.org/tag/hecho-por-nosotros/",{"name":281,"type":218,"value":281},"https://www.hechoxnosotros.org/",{"name":283,"type":218,"value":283},"https://www.insidefashiondesign.com/hecho-por-nosotros-fashion-for-good/",{"name":285,"type":218,"value":285},"https://youtu.be/0LmIeHpFhV0",{"id":117,"type":234,"cta":16,"cta_link":16,"created_at":287,"updated_at":288,"owner_id":289,"owner_relationship":143,"views":134,"owner":290,"image":291,"contributors":295,"article_locations":302,"article_industries":309,"view_count":134,"like_count":131,"collection_count":131,"content":312,"can_edit":232},"2021-01-06T12:20:18.365Z","2026-06-02T00:15:43.393Z","nvtrLQ",{"id":289,"type":84,"owner_id":289,"about":16,"job_title":16,"url":16,"linkedin":16,"email":16,"staff_of_id":16,"organisation_id":16,"organisation":16},{"id":292,"link":293,"alt":16,"source":16,"created_at":287,"updated_at":294,"article_id":117,"image_profile_id":16,"banner_profile_id":16},"i5w4AWojrRs=","https://kh-assets.prod.circularity-gap.world/main-image/1778156913247-a04kLi8B.jpeg","2023-03-03T11:59:18.341Z",[296,298,299,301],{"contributor_id":297},"iM0hkw",{"contributor_id":289},{"contributor_id":300},"UTHahQ",{"contributor_id":83},[303],{"article_id":117,"location_id":304,"created_at":305,"updated_at":16,"location":306},"HRV","2026-05-07T12:28:21.627Z",{"id":304,"type":158,"name":307,"color":16,"parent_location_id":308,"created_at":161,"updated_at":16},"Croatia","EU",[310],{"article_id":117,"industry_id":201,"created_at":305,"updated_at":16,"industry":311},{"id":201,"name":203,"description":204,"sector":205},{"id":313,"score":131,"body":314,"status":231,"article_id":117,"created_at":287,"updated_at":294,"published_at":287},"wRaP",{"title":315,"outcome":316,"problem":317,"summary":318,"solution":319,"attachment":320},"Social Cooperative Humana Nova: empowering the local community by producing innovative recycled products.","\u003Cp>According to Humana Nova, the collection, sorting, and recycling of textiles have the following impacts:\u003C/p>\u003Cp>- Reduced landfill disposal, which directly affects climate (e.g. woolen clothing does not decompose, but produces methane);\u003C/p>\u003Cp>-Reduced textile production;\u003C/p>\u003Cp>-The reduced impact of transportation on environmental pollution, as clothing is mostly collected, sorted, and distributed locally;\u003C/p>\u003Cp>-Less burden on household budgets due to less expensive textile products and clothing\u003C/p>\u003Cp>In addition, they also have:\u003C/p>\u003Cp>-Collected 340.000 kg of clothing and footwear in 2019, 2.000 tonnes collected in the past 5 years;\u003C/p>\u003Cp>- Employed 30 employees (19 with disabilities, 2 Roma, 5 long-term unemployed women, 1 low-educated woman, 1 single mother, and 1 manager with an economics degree)\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>The economic potential of clothing and footwear waste is not adequately recognized in Croatia. Of the 52,000 tonnes of textile waste collected in 2016, only 4% was recycled. The issue is increasingly recognized by local and national authorities. Under the national 2017–2022 waste management plan, as of 2022, around 50% of the total amount of specific types of waste is to be sorted, including textile waste.\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>Humana Nova encourages the employment of disabled and other socially excluded people for the production and sale of quality and innovative textile products made from ecological and recycled fabrics for local and regional markets.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>In this way, the cooperative actively contributes to the sustainable development of the local community, diminishing poverty and contributing to nature conservation and improved waste management.\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>Social Cooperative Humana Nova Čakovec is a leader in social entrepreneurship at the local and regional levels. Humana Nova encourages the employment of disabled and other socially excluded people for the production and sale of quality and innovative textile products made from ecological and recycled fabrics for local and regional markets. Its products respond to the actual needs of users.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>In so doing, the cooperative actively contributes to the sustainable development of the local community, poverty reduction, and nature conservation.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Used clothing is mostly collected in North-Western Croatia and sorted in a Humana Nova production facility according to the following criteria:\u003C/p>\u003Cp>- Clean and whole clothing is sent to the greenware store Čakovec for resale at affordable prices (4 EUR/kg);\u003C/p>\u003Cp>-Clean and partially whole clothing is sent to sewers for refinement, then sold at the warestore;\u003C/p>\u003Cp>-Incomplete clothes are turned into new products (bags, etc.);\u003C/p>\u003Cp>-Worn and stained clothing is recycled as industrial rags;\u003C/p>\u003Cp>-Unusable textiles and waste are passed on to recycling plants to make insulation material;\u003C/p>\u003Cp>-Insulation material is used for packaging.\u003C/p>",[321,323,325,327],{"name":322,"type":218,"value":322},"https://www.total-croatia-news.com/business/28630-textile-waste-recycling-potential-ignored",{"name":324,"type":218,"value":324},"https://www.circle-economy.com/resources/the-social-economy-a-means-for-inclusive-decent-work-in-the-circular-economy",{"name":326,"type":218,"value":326},"http://www.humananova.org/",{"name":328,"type":218,"value":328},"https://circulareconomy.europa.eu/platform/en/good-practices/croatian-cooperative-humana-nova-gives-used-clothing-new-life-and-its-members-new-dream-fulfill",{"id":101,"type":234,"cta":16,"cta_link":16,"created_at":330,"updated_at":331,"owner_id":83,"owner_relationship":143,"views":332,"owner":333,"image":334,"contributors":338,"article_locations":342,"article_industries":343,"view_count":332,"like_count":131,"collection_count":206,"content":352,"can_edit":232},"2021-08-15T15:19:36.189Z","2026-06-03T04:49:44.266Z",21,{"id":83,"type":84,"owner_id":83,"about":16,"job_title":16,"url":16,"linkedin":16,"email":16,"staff_of_id":16,"organisation_id":16,"organisation":16},{"id":335,"link":336,"alt":16,"source":16,"created_at":330,"updated_at":337,"article_id":101,"image_profile_id":16,"banner_profile_id":16},"KEJuvYot1xs=","https://kh-assets.prod.circularity-gap.world/main-image/1778152541812-anty6c4H.jpeg","2022-10-04T15:36:47.505Z",[339,341],{"contributor_id":340},"4t8Hcg",{"contributor_id":83},[],[344,346],{"article_id":101,"industry_id":201,"created_at":250,"updated_at":16,"industry":345},{"id":201,"name":203,"description":204,"sector":205},{"article_id":101,"industry_id":347,"created_at":250,"updated_at":16,"industry":348},"agriculture",{"id":347,"name":349,"description":350,"sector":351},"Agriculture","Producing and gathering crop and animal products from land and water through farming, hunting, and fishing","agri_food",{"id":353,"score":131,"body":354,"status":231,"article_id":101,"created_at":330,"updated_at":337,"published_at":330},"MJEw",{"title":355,"problem":356,"summary":357,"solution":358,"attachment":359},"Oshadi Collective : A regenerative fashion initiative, mindfully building a seed-to-sew supply chain in rural India.","\u003Cp>One defining feature of fashion today is a disconnect between brands, buyers, and the many pairs of hands who make their clothes. Designers often don’t know where their raw materials come from or who farms, spins, and sews their textiles. This absence of human connection allows the exploitation of both people and the planet to slip by unnoticed.\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>Oshadi works with a collective of local farmers and artisans to make fashion that honours the hands of its makers and nurtures the lands where it is grown.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Their collections are sourced, spun, naturally dyed, woven, printed and sewn in the villages neighbouring their farm, so they can ensure every stage of production is sustainable and fair.\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>Ōshadi is building their own self-sufficient supply chain, rooted in ancient wisdom and artisanry. Each fabric tells the story of those who helped to make it a reality. They go beyond certifications to offer a truly transparent model that inspires a respectful relationship to the lands and hands behind every product.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>\u003Cbr>\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Regeneratively Grown Materials\u003C/p>\u003Cp>They help their partners leave a positive impact on the planet. They grow cotton and indigo on their own farm using restorative practices, putting nutrients back into the soil and increasing its ability to capture carbon–in turn improving the biodiversity of the ecosystem.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>\u003Cbr>\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Radically Transparent Process\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Every step of the production process is carried out by the collective.They employ local people on their own terms instead of navigating different suppliers and middlemen, meaning they can uphold the highest ethical and environmental standards. Everyone know exactly where the materials have come from and who made them.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>\u003Cbr>\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Fairly Distributed Profit\u003C/p>\u003Cp>The true cost of fashion production all too often falls on those lowest down the supply chain, including farmers, mill workers and artisans. At Oshadi, they are redesigning this system from the ground up. Their farmer-first format lets the farmer decide the price of the cotton, rather than the buyer. From there on, they make sure all profit is distributed fairly.\u003C/p>",[360,362,364,366],{"name":361,"type":218,"value":361},"https://www.vogue.com/article/oshadi-studio-regenerative-agriculture-ethical-sustainable-fashion",{"name":363,"type":218,"value":363},"https://oshadi.in/",{"name":365,"type":218,"value":365},"https://eco-age.com/resources/oshadi-collective-regenerative-fashion-supply-chain-india/",{"name":367,"type":218,"value":367},"https://www.cottondiaries.com/nistanth-oshadi-collective",{"id":103,"type":140,"cta":16,"cta_link":16,"created_at":369,"updated_at":370,"owner_id":83,"owner_relationship":143,"views":237,"owner":371,"image":372,"contributors":376,"article_locations":380,"article_industries":385,"view_count":237,"like_count":131,"collection_count":206,"content":388,"can_edit":232},"2021-08-16T11:35:07.927Z","2026-06-03T05:45:23.974Z",{"id":83,"type":84,"owner_id":83,"about":16,"job_title":16,"url":16,"linkedin":16,"email":16,"staff_of_id":16,"organisation_id":16,"organisation":16},{"id":373,"link":374,"alt":16,"source":16,"created_at":369,"updated_at":375,"article_id":103,"image_profile_id":16,"banner_profile_id":16},"p3oncnkybn0=","https://kh-assets.prod.circularity-gap.world/main-image/1778152543409-DFDwWcLV.jpeg","2021-10-07T13:13:22.252Z",[377,379],{"contributor_id":378},"R2m8Ng",{"contributor_id":83},[381],{"article_id":103,"location_id":382,"created_at":250,"updated_at":16,"location":383},"NLD",{"id":382,"type":158,"name":384,"color":16,"parent_location_id":308,"created_at":254,"updated_at":16},"The Netherlands",[386],{"article_id":103,"industry_id":201,"created_at":250,"updated_at":16,"industry":387},{"id":201,"name":203,"description":204,"sector":205},{"id":389,"score":131,"body":390,"status":231,"article_id":103,"created_at":369,"updated_at":375,"published_at":369},"2EP5",{"title":391,"outcome":392,"problem":393,"summary":394,"solution":395,"attachment":396},"Crafting Smart Textiles – a meaningful way towards societal sustainability in the fashion field?","\u003Cp>Slow fashion means accepting diversity, producing in small scale, and trusting the partners, valuing making and maintaining and a true price of the product incorporating ecological and social costs. Within smart textiles and garments development, the main issue today is yet to explore possibilities, push borders of what is possible and propose scenarios of potential use. It is very much material, technology driven - more as a hack to prove that something can work, rather than fulfilling a need and growing upon that. Crafting smart textiles makes it a slow process, hands-on experience; it allows craftsmen to grow together with their creation.\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>Many rules for life, ways of living and making things changed during industrialization. Certain decisions and directions towards efficiency and standardizations killed older and long-lived principals of quality, individualized approach and value of handwork. Crafts were considered too time demanding for mainstream in that period, but now re-considering some decisions that led us to mass production, they sound inspiring and worth looking into. Could we learn values passed on for generations through making and transfer/translate them to the smart textiles applications? What would have a similar meaning to us today and what would get lost in translation?\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>Fashion field needs to mature and adapt to the new rules set by the user within today’s environment. While developing the new field of smart textiles, this paper stresses the importance of learning from traditional crafts and the value of craftsmanship.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>The research starts by introducing the importance of crafting and connecting it to the industrialized way of producing. Then, it is asked whether valuable insights can be merged from both in order to develop the smart textiles area.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Authors: Kristi Kuusk, Dr. Oscar Tomico, Dr. Ir. Geert Langereis, Dr. Ir. Geert Langereis\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>Fashion industry, suffering in exhaustive sustainability issues, doesn’t need a further drive by the “next cool” thing that is growing the pile of waste in few months. Next to all the efforts done in wiser material use, reuse and recycling, vintage promotion, new business models, it needs a way to close the loop from materials and energy use to the industry and user, and back to the industry and user. (Fletcher and Grose, 2012) This is not a material driven change: it must be a deeper behavioral turn. A change that makes garments more valuable to the users: through the combined influence of the process, materials, final outcome, care taking and disposal. Influential steps need to be taken by the designer, producer, supplier and with the greatest impact: the user. This change asks for a multi-stakeholder approach, currently researched in the “CRISP Smart Textile Services” project (Bhömer, 2012), with the goal to integrate the different design and production processes of textile, technology and services.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>The paper presents an example project merging Quick Response (QR) codes with traditional embroidery that inspired a set of TechCrafts explorations in a form of student projects. In case of the embroidered QR codes, the link to technology is an add-on feature to textiles. In the other examples, craftsmanship technologies are used to create the textile substrate itself. These explorations are the input for a discussion about the role of craftsmanship and skills in developing materials with interactive properties that is held with relation to the possibilities for societal sustainability.\u003C/p>",[397],{"name":398,"type":218,"value":398},"https://research.tue.nl/en/publications/crafting-smart-textiles-a-meaningful-way-towards-societal-sustain",{"id":111,"type":234,"cta":16,"cta_link":16,"created_at":400,"updated_at":401,"owner_id":83,"owner_relationship":143,"views":402,"owner":403,"image":16,"contributors":404,"article_locations":406,"article_industries":407,"view_count":402,"like_count":131,"collection_count":206,"content":412,"can_edit":232},"2021-08-31T06:37:43.622Z","2026-06-03T05:37:02.812Z",13,{"id":83,"type":84,"owner_id":83,"about":16,"job_title":16,"url":16,"linkedin":16,"email":16,"staff_of_id":16,"organisation_id":16,"organisation":16},[405],{"contributor_id":83},[],[408,410],{"article_id":111,"industry_id":201,"created_at":250,"updated_at":16,"industry":409},{"id":201,"name":203,"description":204,"sector":205},{"article_id":111,"industry_id":347,"created_at":250,"updated_at":16,"industry":411},{"id":347,"name":349,"description":350,"sector":351},{"id":413,"score":131,"body":414,"status":231,"article_id":111,"created_at":400,"updated_at":427,"published_at":400},"9A4J",{"title":415,"outcome":416,"problem":417,"summary":418,"solution":419,"attachment":420},"Regenerative Farming - A new approach for sustainable and circular textiles","\u003Cp>“If we increase the carbon under the soil by 2% on all the farmland and working landscapes on this planet, we could offset 100% of all annual greenhouse emissions going into the atmosphere,” explains Rebecca, quoting a statistic by Dr. Rattan Lal, one of the preeminent soil scientists in the world based at Ohio State university.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>\u003Cbr>\u003C/p>\u003Cp>There are organisations worldwide who are working with the local communities to integrate regenerative systems in their textile productions and creative practices.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Kering and Conservation International launched the Regenerative Fund for Nature, with the aim of transforming 1,000,000 hectares of crop and rangelands into regenerative agricultural spaces over the next five years.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>7Weaves has been working extensively with the indigenous communities of Indo-Burma region and developed a fully transparent Eri Silk value chain with the farmers, spinners, natural dyers, weavers, ecologists and designers. \"Each piece of cloth at 7Weaves is an incentive to save the environment\", says Rituraj Dewan, co-founder at 7Weaves. He also explains that regenerative is only a new word to describe the traditional farming knowledge practiced by the indigenous communities since ages. In their campaign, \"Fashion for Biodiversity\", the organisation emphasizes on collaboration models where fashion can contribute significantly to save the biodiversity of the region.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Khamir’s Kala Cotton Initiative uses Kala cotton, a variety that’s indigenous to the Kachchh region of Gujarat. It’s a drought-resistant, purely rainfed crop so it doesn’t need irrigating. It’s also highly disease and pest resistant and can be grown without any chemicals.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Fibreshed is a US-based organisation championing regenerative textile systems with a particular focus on wool. Their work demonstrates how regenerative wool can be created alongside regenerative plant fibre systems to produce Climate Beneficial™ ethical wool.\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>Rebecca Burgess, founder of the Fibershed movement and a self-trained natural dyer, cultivating natural dye plants, asks in her new book Fibershed: Growing a Movement of Farmers, Fashion Activists, and Makers for a New Textile Economy. “Think of it like food,” she explains. “Our food system has become fairly industrialised and there are so many things that people are asking because of health issues. Well, some of the chemical compounds that we’re concerned about in our food are also used to grow fibre crops.”\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Conventionally grown cotton is the most pesticide-intensive crop in the world and the pollution caused by these pesticides affects thousands of cotton farmers and their families each year. It’s also grown with huge amounts of irrigation, accounting for 69% of the water footprint of all textile fibres.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>The textile dyeing and finishing industry is one of the most chemically intensive on the planet and the number one polluter of water after agriculture. It's important to address this when looking at the overall sustainability of textile systems.\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>What do clothes have to do with agriculture? The raw material for textiles from cotton to wool or silk to cashmere, all comes from farms, rangelands or forests. The current agricultural practices of monocrop farming, usage of chemicals and pesticides, clearance of forest land for agriculture, together contribute to biodiversity loss and climate change. Regenerative agricultural practices help increase biodiversity, improve soil fertility, reduce soil erosion, sequester carbon and generally offer a more sustainable way of producing our food and fibres. Many organisations worldwide are returning back to the traditional agricultural practices for developing regenerative systems in the textile value chain.\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>The future of the fashion industry is inextricably linked with the future of agriculture as all the raw materials from cotton to wool, or silk to cashmere that are used in our clothing are grown in farms, rangelands or the forests.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Though agriculture is currently a major driver of biodiversity loss and climate change, it can be transformed from a ‘problem’ to a powerful nature-based solution\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Regenerative agriculture is a term used to describe a collection of farming and grazing practices that help to repair environmental damage and rebuild healthy ecosystems. These include practices that help increase biodiversity, improve soil fertility, reduce soil erosion, sequester carbon and generally offer a more sustainable way of producing our food and fibres.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Regenerative techniques include reducing tillage (which reduces disturbance to soil ecosystems), planting multi-species cover crops to enrich and improve the soil, and ‘alley cropping,’ a technique where organic cotton is grown between rows of trees like mulberry and fig.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Like plant fibres, wool can be regenerative if the animals are grazed on landscapes where the health of the pasture is restored through building soil fertility and the use of prescribed grazing systems to enhance biodiversity.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Natural indigo - a deep blue colour from the \u003Cem>Indigofera \u003C/em>plant - can be highly regenerative. It’s one of the most practical and durable natural dyes and unlike most natural dyes, it can be used without a mordant to fix the dye to the textile fibres. As a legume, indigo is a nitrogen-fixing plant that naturally enhances soil fertility. It grows easily without any chemicals or irrigation and is a very useful plant for restoring dry or nutrient-depleted soils. It’s also low-waste. After harvesting, the plant stems can be used as firewood. And once the pigment has been extracted, the plant residue can be composted and used as fertiliser, with the remaining water from the dyeing process used to irrigate crops.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Regenerative fibre and dye systems offer plenty of social as well as environmental benefits. Many of the producers we work with focus on the regeneration of communities as well as the environment. Their work encourages close local links between actors at different stages of the textile supply chain, helping to create a diversity of local jobs and supporting a healthy local economy.\u003C/p>",[421,423,425],{"name":422,"type":218,"value":422},"https://eco-age.com/resources/fibershed-rebecca-burgess-interview/",{"name":424,"type":218,"value":424},"https://www.kering.com/en/sustainability/safeguarding-the-planet/regenerative-fund-for-nature/",{"name":426,"type":218,"value":426},"https://ecosophy.co.uk/journal/beyond-organic-restoring-the-land-and-communities-with-regenerative-textiles","2021-09-30T10:19:26.289Z",{"id":107,"type":140,"cta":16,"cta_link":16,"created_at":429,"updated_at":430,"owner_id":83,"owner_relationship":143,"views":431,"owner":432,"image":433,"contributors":437,"article_locations":440,"article_industries":446,"view_count":431,"like_count":131,"collection_count":206,"content":454,"can_edit":232},"2021-08-21T08:32:37.058Z","2026-06-03T05:51:55.468Z",55,{"id":83,"type":84,"owner_id":83,"about":16,"job_title":16,"url":16,"linkedin":16,"email":16,"staff_of_id":16,"organisation_id":16,"organisation":16},{"id":434,"link":435,"alt":16,"source":16,"created_at":429,"updated_at":436,"article_id":107,"image_profile_id":16,"banner_profile_id":16},"722A-c4LZ6Y=","https://kh-assets.prod.circularity-gap.world/main-image/1778152569416-bTJKw1p_.jpeg","2021-09-20T12:06:50.287Z",[438,439],{"contributor_id":245},{"contributor_id":83},[441],{"article_id":107,"location_id":442,"created_at":250,"updated_at":16,"location":443},"AUS",{"id":442,"type":158,"name":444,"color":16,"parent_location_id":445,"created_at":254,"updated_at":16},"Australia","OC",[447,449],{"article_id":107,"industry_id":201,"created_at":250,"updated_at":16,"industry":448},{"id":201,"name":203,"description":204,"sector":205},{"article_id":107,"industry_id":450,"created_at":250,"updated_at":16,"industry":451},"home_and_office_furnishings",{"id":450,"name":452,"description":453,"sector":205},"Home and Office Furnishings","Producing indoor products for the home and office, such as furniture, including upholstery, carpets and wall-coverings, as well as cutlery, cookware, glassware, crystal, silverware, utensils, kitchenware and household specialties",{"id":455,"score":131,"body":456,"status":231,"article_id":107,"created_at":429,"updated_at":436,"published_at":429},"9TCx",{"title":457,"outcome":458,"problem":459,"summary":460,"solution":461,"attachment":462},"Sustainable Design and Indigenous Technologies of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people for weaving local materials","\u003Cp>The students studied the reasons and purposes behind the indigenous products and collaborated with Aboriginal and Torres Islander community organisation. The students were able to develop a holistic approach in designing circular products. Their study revolved around the following descriptions to ideate and develop fish traps:\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Investigate the suitability of materials, systems, components, tools and equipment for a range of purposes.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Generate, develop, and communicate design ideas and decisions using appropriate technical terms and graphical representation techniques.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Evaluate design ideas, processes and solutions based on criteria for success developed with guidance and including care for the environment.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Plan a sequence of production steps when making designed solutions individually and collaboratively.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>\u003Cbr>\u003C/p>\u003Cp>\u003Cbr>\u003C/p>\u003Cp>A great example for a traditional useful basket is found in North Queensland. Bi-cornual baskets were made using a special design weave that allowed baskets to sit in running water to soak seeds for several days to remove toxins and make them safe to eat. This allowed people to eat a much wider variety of foods, including to prepare flours to cook with, that would otherwise have been poisonous. The bicornual basket also has an ergonomical design, made to fit securely and comfortably on the back whilst the handle part is hung from the forehead.  From this position, the basket user could carry a controlled weight easily while having their hands free. These scientific principles and indigenous ecological knowledge of the local communities can prove beneficial in designing functional and circular products collaboratively with them by acknowledging them, their beliefs and respecting their knowledge.\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>Many man-made materials take hundreds or thousands of years to break down in landfill. Longevity of products and end-of-life disposal is hardly considered while designing products. The resources that are readily available in excess are generally not valued and unsustainably consumed. A traditional handmade object such as a large basket would be looked after with a lot of care, unlike modern throw-away plastic bags, as it takes days or weeks to find, collect and prepare the materials, then weave the basket.\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>Many man-made materials take hundreds or thousands of years to break down in landfill. Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people have used locally available natural materials like grasses and reeds from wetlands for thousands of years for weaving different kinds of useful and multifunctional everyday objects which are completely biodegradable.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people have transformed materials from their local environment using skill, innovation and science. The process of making tools and complex objects for a specific purpose requires a high level of knowledge of materials, processes, and designs. They have traditionally woven waterproof baskets and effective fish traps using only natural and renewable resources.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>The Indigenous Knowledge Institute under University of Melbourne conducts a course for Year 3 and 4 on design and technologies where the students were given an assignment divided into 3 activities.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Activity 1: Designing fish traps\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Activity 2: Investigating weaving materials\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Activity 3: Weaving from natural or recycled materials\u003C/p>\u003Cp>This study focuses on the science principles used behind weaving traditional baskets and fishing nets to design and develop new circular products with specific purposes.\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>Various studies and campaigns are trying bring back the focus on longevity of products and end-of-life disposal of designed products. One of the benefits of using local natural materials are that this tends to be a renewable resource, in that if care is taken not to remove all of the plants, they will grow back for next time. Natural materials are generally compostable, and once the object is no longer of use, can be safely discarded to break down naturally. \u003C/p>\u003Cp>The aboriginal and islander people used all natural fibres available locally and invented weaving technologies which they used to design baskets with multipurpose functional uses like fishing, gathering and storing food and collecting water. Some materials are only available at a certain time of year, for example, some grasses are more plentiful during or after the wet season. It requires a lot of skill and observation to find the right plants in season.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Fish traps are an excellent example of highly skilled weaving. The size of the weave is important. They were made so the little fish could escape while keeping the big ones to feed their family. This way they still looked after the rivers and its inhabitants. “Take only what you need” is a very important rule in Aboriginal culture, and ensures there is enough left to keep the ecosystem healthy, and for other people. There are different styles of fish traps to catch different types of fish. Eel traps are long and skinny with a funnel at the entrance to guide the eel into the trap. Barramundi traps are much larger, wider and have a one-way lip at the entrance so the fish can’t escape.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>The Indigenous Knowledge Institute under University of Melbourne conducts a course for Year 3 and 4 on design and technologies where the students were given an assignment divided into 3 activities.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Activity 1: Designing fish traps\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Activity 2: Investigating weaving materials\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Activity 3: Weaving from natural or recycled materials\u003C/p>\u003Cp>The students were required to focus on the science principles used behind weaving traditional baskets and fishing nets to design and develop new circular products with specific purposes.\u003C/p>",[463,465,467],{"name":464,"type":218,"value":464},"https://indigenousknowledge.unimelb.edu.au/curriculum/resources/weaving-design-into-local-materials",{"name":466,"type":218,"value":466},"https://blog.qm.qld.gov.au/2012/08/01/science-principles-in-traditional-aboriginal-australia/",{"name":468,"type":218,"value":468},"http://collectionsearch.nma.gov.au/object/106885",{"id":115,"type":234,"cta":16,"cta_link":16,"created_at":470,"updated_at":471,"owner_id":83,"owner_relationship":143,"views":472,"owner":473,"image":474,"contributors":478,"article_locations":481,"article_industries":487,"view_count":472,"like_count":131,"collection_count":206,"content":490,"can_edit":232},"2021-09-08T09:12:45.935Z","2026-06-03T01:38:50.632Z",11,{"id":83,"type":84,"owner_id":83,"about":16,"job_title":16,"url":16,"linkedin":16,"email":16,"staff_of_id":16,"organisation_id":16,"organisation":16},{"id":475,"link":476,"alt":16,"source":16,"created_at":470,"updated_at":477,"article_id":115,"image_profile_id":16,"banner_profile_id":16},"UWKx22UONTg=","https://kh-assets.prod.circularity-gap.world/main-image/1778152610415-SA_pvGvI.jpeg","2021-09-20T11:54:16.842Z",[479,480],{"contributor_id":245},{"contributor_id":83},[482],{"article_id":115,"location_id":483,"created_at":250,"updated_at":16,"location":484},"1278974",{"id":483,"type":185,"name":485,"color":16,"parent_location_id":486,"created_at":188,"updated_at":16},"Almora","IND",[488],{"article_id":115,"industry_id":201,"created_at":250,"updated_at":16,"industry":489},{"id":201,"name":203,"description":204,"sector":205},{"id":491,"score":131,"body":492,"status":231,"article_id":115,"created_at":470,"updated_at":477,"published_at":470},"joOA",{"title":493,"outcome":494,"problem":495,"summary":496,"solution":497,"attachment":498},"PEOLI : Reviving traditional craft through sustainable practices in the Kumaon Hills of the Himalayan Range","\u003Cp>Knitting comes naturally to the women of this region and by giving them an opportunity to utilise this skill, Peoli is trying to ensure that the talent of these women generates an actual livelihood. They are also supporting the artisans in expanding their existing skillset. Apart from knitting, they have trained women to spin and dye, and are also attempting to instill administrative skills.\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>\u003Cstrong>Lack of agricultural land and decreasing demand for indigenous handcrafted products have forced the locals to migrate to urban cities, and leave behind their craft and unique culture in exchange for underpaid jobs with inhumane working conditions.\u003C/strong>\u003C/p>\u003Cp>\u003Cbr>\u003C/p>\u003Cp>The rural villages in the hills of North India are facing frequent forest fires, erratic weather patterns, increasing temperatures and depletion natural resources. This has adversely affected not only the biodiversity but also the very survival of the local communities.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>\u003Cbr>\u003C/p>\u003Cp>In the local markets, inexpensive machine-made goods, popular due to their cost and aspirational value have replaced the indigenously produced items, which would otherwise have sustained the local economy. This is causing a rapid depletion of indigenous skills in the region, which was traditionally known to rank high on social indices.\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>Peoli is a design studio based in Almora located at the southern edge of the Kumaon Hills of the Himalayan Range in Uttarakhand, North India. It works with the women of the region and gives them opportunities to practice their traditional skills and generate a fulfilling livelihood. Carded wool, cotton, silk, nettle and hemp are spun into soft supple yarn using a hand-held spindle or a Bageshwari Charkha, a foot operated spinning wheel of indigenous make, and further hand-woven, knitted and stitched into contemporary garments. Each of the Peoli products is dyed using natural colours, dyes or colorants derived from natural sources.\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>Peoli is reviving the demand for traditional skills and products. They are working to provide livelihoods to women in their own region and selling their products internationally.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>They use organic dyes extracted from walnut hulls, brazilwood, indigo and rhododendron. The natural dyeing process, unlike chemical dyes, leaves a negligible footprint on the environment and the health of their artisans. Peoli has a rainwater harvesting system in place, where the water purified after dyeing and repeated washing is released back into the earth.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>They have committed to work only with organic raw materials such as wool, cotton, silk and low-impact materials like Himalayan hemp and nettle. They have the traditional ‘Bageshwari Charkha’ where women artisans spin wool. The founders of Peoli admit their concern for Peoli which is the lack of transparency in sourcing raw materials, especially in the absence of certifications. Limited local knowledge about ethical practices attached to rearing sheep or growing cotton makes ensuring raw material is ethically sourced extremely tricky. \u003C/p>\u003Cp>Ethically sourced materials like Eri silk, organic Kala cotton, Nagaland hill cotton and Merino wool are combined with indigenous materials like Harsil wool, Himalayan hemp and nettle to enhance their comfort and aesthetic appeal. A similar synthesis is applied in crafting the products where local craft skills like handloom weaving and knitting are ingeniously merged with hand embroidery, beadwork and shibori.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Eco-Age covers the sustainable story of Peoli and observes, \"Like any other manufacturer, Peoli has to also deal with deadstock, offcuts and tiny pieces of yarns that cannot be used to produce an entirely new garment on their own. To do so, the unsold pieces are unravelled and knitted back into another garment while the offcuts or tiny pieces are stitched together to create something new or used to create tassels. Not only does Peoli use up its own waste, but they also source waste raw materials from other organisations in the vicinity and transform them.\"\u003C/p>\u003Cp>They control their carbon footprint through their initial steps of operating a manual spinning wheel, harvesting rainwater or setting up ways to harness solar energy. They have also associated themselves with organisations that are working towards creating a positive environmental impact. The packaging boxes used for their organically dyed wool balls are made from water hyacinth, an invasive aquatic plant which slowly suffocates and kills the water body in which it grows.\u003C/p>",[499,501,503],{"name":500,"type":218,"value":500},"https://garlandmag.com/loop/peoli/",{"name":502,"type":218,"value":502},"https://eco-age.com/resources/discovering-peoli-craft-enterprise-himalayas/",{"name":504,"type":218,"value":504},"https://www.peoli.in/",{"id":109,"type":234,"cta":16,"cta_link":16,"created_at":506,"updated_at":507,"owner_id":83,"owner_relationship":143,"views":508,"owner":509,"image":510,"contributors":514,"article_locations":517,"article_industries":521,"view_count":508,"like_count":131,"collection_count":206,"content":526,"can_edit":232},"2021-08-21T15:15:01.461Z","2026-06-01T22:32:06.168Z",15,{"id":83,"type":84,"owner_id":83,"about":16,"job_title":16,"url":16,"linkedin":16,"email":16,"staff_of_id":16,"organisation_id":16,"organisation":16},{"id":511,"link":512,"alt":16,"source":16,"created_at":506,"updated_at":513,"article_id":109,"image_profile_id":16,"banner_profile_id":16},"0nOXC7RFspM=","https://kh-assets.prod.circularity-gap.world/main-image/1778152570451-7XrdW7pW.jpeg","2021-09-20T11:39:47.007Z",[515,516],{"contributor_id":245},{"contributor_id":83},[518],{"article_id":109,"location_id":486,"created_at":250,"updated_at":16,"location":519},{"id":486,"type":158,"name":520,"color":16,"parent_location_id":160,"created_at":188,"updated_at":16},"India",[522,524],{"article_id":109,"industry_id":201,"created_at":250,"updated_at":16,"industry":523},{"id":201,"name":203,"description":204,"sector":205},{"article_id":109,"industry_id":347,"created_at":250,"updated_at":16,"industry":525},{"id":347,"name":349,"description":350,"sector":351},{"id":527,"score":131,"body":528,"status":231,"article_id":109,"created_at":506,"updated_at":513,"published_at":506},"hHPu",{"title":529,"outcome":530,"problem":531,"summary":532,"solution":533,"attachment":534},"Tula - Reviving Indigenous Cotton of India by using traditional farming practices","\u003Cp>Tula farmers have seen dramatically improved livelihoods. They now have diversified their income sources. The majority of their income now comes from the lucrative food crops they grow alongside the cotton. Tula pays a premium over the market price of BT cotton — 50% more — to ensure that growing cotton is a financially viable activity for the farmers. Tula now purchases 200 quintals of cotton annually from 80-100 small-holding farmers, who own, on average, less than one acre each.\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>India grows 21% of the world’s cotton crop, second only to China’s 29%. It is something to be proud of but at what cost. India has seen increasing number of farmer suicides in its cotton belt.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>\"Genetically modified cotton — introduced into India by Monsanto as “BT Cotton” in 2002 — within one decade became ~95% of India’s cotton production. Farmers are left with no choice but to switch to BT cotton and buy expensive seeds every year. To ensure good yield, enormous amount is spent on pesticides. Farmers are forced to take loans for their cotton farms. Usually, it leads to enormous debts when they are not able to produce the required yield because of uncertain water shortage and pests. Research has shown that farmers’ costs have increased significantly, while the prices they obtain for their cotton have decreased.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>\u003Cbr>\u003C/p>\u003Cp> Beckert’s book \u003Cem>The Empire of Cotton\u003C/em> explores how the history of the global cotton market is the story of the making of modern-day capitalism, “The global South was to be a market for metropolitan industry, not a competitor, and a supplier of raw materials and labor, and both required the destruction of indigenous manufacturing. Colonial governments created systems of tariffs and excise duties that discriminated against indigenous producers.”\u003C/p>\u003Cp>South Asia’s biodiverse forests were broken in the 1800s by the British imperialists to serve as large-scale, mono-crop, commercialized farms. Mono-crop agriculture ruins soil nutrients and requires chemical fertilizers and pesticides for better yield.\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>Introduction of BT(genetically modified) cotton in India resulted in 300,000 debt-ridden cotton farmers committing suicide in a decade as observed by The Indian Council of Agricultural Sciences, which administers farm science, and the Central Cotton Research Institute.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Tula identified this biggest problem of cotton cultivation in India and started working with local communities in the states of Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, and Maharashtra to identify the particular strains of indigenous cotton unique to each locality. The work of Tula is based on natural farming, Mahatma Gandhi’s teachings, and a movement to revive indigenous cotton. Tula works to revive all steps of the sustainable rain-fed agriculture supply chain where no pesticides and insecticides are needed. Indigenous cotton is traditionally a multi crop which makes it less water intensive.\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>Tula team works to revive the indigenous strains of cotton species \u003Cem>arboreum,\u003C/em> and \u003Cem>herbaceum \u003C/em>(both are colloquially referred to as\u003Cem> desi \u003C/em>cotton, meaning local cotton)\u003Cem>. \u003C/em>Cotton is remarkable due to its morphological plasticity, which enables it to adapt to local climates and geographies. Traditionally, villagers in present-day India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh grew \u003Cem>desi\u003C/em> cotton as a secondary crop alongside their primary food crops, maintaining their biodiversity and food security.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>\u003Cem>Arboreum\u003C/em> and \u003Cem>herbaceum \u003C/em>are short-staple cottons that had over thousands of years, adapted to local microclimates in South Asia\u003Cem>. \u003C/em>They are, therefore, naturally very resistant to local pests and insects. The seeds are saved for next year’s crop, increasing farmers’ agency and financial independence. Local native varieties can grow without watering or irrigation. They thrive with only rainwater as their water source, a crucial consideration because one of the most frequent — but inaccurate — criticisms about cotton is that it requires extensive water resources. Water requirements are significantly reduced when we return to local, native species of cotton, which allow for rainfed farming. (Harpreet Singh for Fibershed)\u003C/p>\u003Cp>The Tula Team has worked hard to find indigenous seeds after meeting many rural elderly farmers who had kept old seeds saved by their ancestors. They also found few seeds in local agricultural universities for research purposes. It’s taken several years to grow enough cotton to save enough seeds to distribute to enough farmers to be able to impact the number of livelihoods to which Tula aspires.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Tula’s partner farmers grow this cotton using traditional soil management techniques that restore and maintain soil fertility. They use homemade traditional fertilizers such as \u003Cem>panchagavya\u003C/em> and \u003Cem>jeevamrit, \u003C/em>which have been used for centuries in the Indian subcontinent. \u003Cem>Panchagavya \u003C/em>and \u003Cem>jeevamrit\u003C/em> are easily made by fermenting readily available ingredients, including cow dung (from native South Asian cow breeds), jaggery (unprocessed, unrefined traditional sugar), and in some recipes, neem and other local leaves. \u003Cem>Panchagavya\u003C/em> is used as both soil fertilizer and, when sprayed on plant foliage, pest repellent. Mulching is also a critical practice. In tropical climates, mulch provides added soil nutrition and retains soil moisture.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>\u003Cem>Desi\u003C/em> cotton grows in a 7-8 month cycle, and farmers grow 8-9 other three-month crops in their fields alongside cotton, in the mixed crop methods used before British imperialism. The companion crops planted alongside \u003Cem>desi \u003C/em>cotton vary by geography: in Karnataka, cotton is grown alongside chili peppers; in Tamil Nadu, it is grown alongside corn, millet, coriander, and vegetables including onions, okra, tomato, and chili peppers; and in Maharashtra, it is grown alongside pulses (chickpea, pigeon pea, millets), flax, and vegetables (including okra, tomato). Once the farmers harvest the companion crops, they cut the stalks and lay them in the fields as mulch. (Harpreet Singh for Fibershed)\u003C/p>",[535,537,539,541],{"name":536,"type":218,"value":536},"https://www.resilience.org/stories/2020-08-17/tula-a-return-to-indias-regenerative-cotton-roots/",{"name":538,"type":218,"value":538},"https://fibershed.org/2020/08/14/tula-a-return-to-indias-regenerative-cotton-roots/",{"name":540,"type":218,"value":540},"https://tula.org.in/cotton-value-chain/",{"name":542,"type":218,"value":542},"https://www.hindustantimes.com/business/ministry-blames-bt-cotton-for-farmer-suicides/story-cvCcs3SwWJsyu0qGsrDCpK.html",{"id":113,"type":234,"cta":16,"cta_link":16,"created_at":544,"updated_at":545,"owner_id":83,"owner_relationship":143,"views":472,"owner":546,"image":547,"contributors":551,"article_locations":553,"article_industries":556,"view_count":472,"like_count":131,"collection_count":206,"content":561,"can_edit":232},"2021-09-06T13:27:15.965Z","2026-06-02T02:15:03.694Z",{"id":83,"type":84,"owner_id":83,"about":16,"job_title":16,"url":16,"linkedin":16,"email":16,"staff_of_id":16,"organisation_id":16,"organisation":16},{"id":548,"link":549,"alt":16,"source":16,"created_at":544,"updated_at":550,"article_id":113,"image_profile_id":16,"banner_profile_id":16},"9Qb8RQ7xDP4=","https://kh-assets.prod.circularity-gap.world/main-image/1778152606617-FKn5JVyA.jpeg","2021-09-09T12:57:19.903Z",[552],{"contributor_id":83},[554],{"article_id":113,"location_id":486,"created_at":250,"updated_at":16,"location":555},{"id":486,"type":158,"name":520,"color":16,"parent_location_id":160,"created_at":188,"updated_at":16},[557,559],{"article_id":113,"industry_id":201,"created_at":250,"updated_at":16,"industry":558},{"id":201,"name":203,"description":204,"sector":205},{"article_id":113,"industry_id":347,"created_at":250,"updated_at":16,"industry":560},{"id":347,"name":349,"description":350,"sector":351},{"id":562,"score":131,"body":563,"status":231,"article_id":113,"created_at":544,"updated_at":550,"published_at":544},"rZnA",{"title":564,"outcome":565,"problem":566,"summary":567,"solution":568,"attachment":569},"RESET : The first zero-budget, vertically integrated regenerative cotton farming project in the world","\u003Cp>In 5 years, RESET has converted 62,500 acres of cotton from degenerative to regenerative production systems eliminating all GMOs. Their farming practices have increased water retention capacity by 20-30% and farm biodiversity by 100%. They have also effectively removed 337,500 kgs of toxic pesticides. The income of 15,000 farmers has also doubled in 5 years. With an emphasis on female farmers, RESET farmers enjoy lower costs, greater yields and higher profits\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>Cotton farming occupies 6% of land in India but consumes over 50% of the country’s pesticides. Conventional cotton farming relies on disproportionate amounts of toxic pesticides, insecticides and herbicides.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>More than 30% total annual GHG emissions come from agriculture. 8,663 liters of water are needed to produce 1 kg of conventional seed cotton and 20,217 liters of water are needed to produce 1 kg conventional lint cotton so farms are often irrigated rather than rain-fed. Approximately 94% of Indian cotton is grown using genetically modified seeds (GMOs).\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Over 300,000 of debt-ridden Indian cotton farmers committed suicide in a decade. Small farmers, especially tribal women cotton growers need attention as they are capital poor and chronically exploited by middlemen, pesticide dealers, and trade forces. These farmers are subjected to market and crop vulnerabilities while required to make high investments with high market risk.\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>RESET stands for \"Regenerate the Environment, Society, and Economy through Textiles\". It is a non-profit organisation working towards the upliftment of small and marginal farming communities, tribals and women in India. It has transformed the unsustainable cotton farming practices into a holistic regenerative textile ecosystem which values natural resources, empower lives, and unite people. They are currently working with tribal farmers in Vizianagaram and Srikakulam district of Andhra Pradesh with emphasis on women farmers. 550 farmer families in 46 villages have benefitted from this project.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>The entire RESET ecosystem with farmers, ginner, spinner, knitter, dyer and garment workers, all located in India, is involved in the production of sustainable T-shirts where no toxic material is used at any stage starting from the selection of the cotton seed to the sewing of the label.\u003C/p>","\u003Cp>RESET farmers cultivate cotton by using the principles of agroecology. Salient features of RESET farms are:\u003C/p>\u003Cp>No GMOs (BT cotton)\u003C/p>\u003Cp>No toxic agrochemicals like pesticides, weedicides and synthetic fertilizers\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Intercropping with pulses\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Border plants to manage pests\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Low tillage\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Cow based soil nutrient management: bio-manures\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Locally available natural inputs and plant concoctions to control insect pests and diseases.\u003C/p>\u003Cp>\u003Cbr>\u003C/p>\u003Cp>Regenerative organic cotton farming practices of RESET builds soil health and organic matter to support healthy plant growth. It mitigates carbon emissions and stores atmospheric carbon in the soil and eliminates the use of chemical inputs and GMOs (Genetically Modified Organisms). It increases biodiversity, ecosystem resilience, increases water percolation, retention and reduce runoff and soil erosion.\u003C/p>",[570,572,574],{"name":571,"type":218,"value":571},"https://gvksociety.org/portfolio-item/reset/",{"name":573,"type":218,"value":573},"https://sourcingjournal.com/topics/thought-leadership/from-sustainable-to-regenerative-the-ultimate-win-win-solution-in-indias-cotton-belt-125999/",{"name":575,"type":218,"value":575},"https://www.thehindu.com/news/national/andhra-pradesh/organic-cotton-t-shirts-a-big-hit-in-belgium/article28692456.ece",[]]