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A Future-Proof Built Environment
A Future-Proof Built EnvironmentA Future-Proof Built EnvironmentRead more
A Future-Proof Built EnvironmentA Future-Proof Built Environment
October 31, 2017
A Future-Proof Built Environment

“A Future-Proof Built Environment” is a report co-launched by ABN AMRO and Circle Economy. The facts are clear: Currently, 40% of all extracted minerals worldwide are used in the built environment. Luckily the sector has started to wake up and some companies are now leading the way. This report highlights real-life and practical examples on how to rethink the way we create the built environment that surrounds us. The report takes a systematic view on the sector, identifying clear levers for circular change. Circle Economy and ABN Amro now published all the insights gained during the built of the first fully circular building in Amsterdam’s financial district: ABN AMRO’s CIRCL pavilion. CIRCL was planned and built as an example of “how to walk the circular talk”. The philosophy and ambition was: “doing nothing is no longer an option and that now is the time to create inspiring examples showing that circular business models and building standards are the future. This report captures and analyses the insights that all parties involved in the planning and construction process have gathered – and cross-referenced with “best circular practices”.

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Shout! and engage your consumer (Step 4)
Shout! and engage your consumer (Step 4)Shout! and engage your consumer (Step 4)Read more
Shout! and engage your consumer (Step 4)Shout! and engage your consumer (Step 4)
October 19, 2017
Shout! and engage your consumer (Step 4)

This is the fourth step of our 5-step plan to circularity. Catch up on step 1, step 2, and step 3 first.Consumers have never been in a better position to leverage their agency in influencing the brands around them. As they are increasingly take on even more of an active role on the way to a circular economy - remember that they’re the ones to become suppliers to closed-loop systems and hence essential agents in retrieving precious resources -, it is more crucial than ever for brands to actively educate, engage, and empower these consumers on their journey to circularity. Doing so provides them not only with the opportunity to reinvent the narrative around sustainability (and circularity!), but, more importantly, to effectively redesign, strengthen, and improve the brand-consumer relationship so it no longer revolves around empty promises, but value.

Mindlessly complicit at worst, an educated and empowered consumer, on the other hand, could drive the transition to a circular economy- so why have similar enterprises failed in the past?Sustainability initiatives abound and have been trying - and failing - to appeal to the mainstream consumer for as long as they have existed- and not for lack of goodwill. Global consumers are increasingly aware of the socio-environmental impact involved in the products they buy; they not only expect brands to act responsibly, but they are also willing to forego some of their own convenience for the sake of the greater good. Getting them to act on these good intentions, however, is a different story.Two important barriers come to mind:

  • Greenwashing. Companies have long misused and abused marketing and communications strategies to make unsubstantiated claims about and adorn their commitment to sustainability, undermining their relationship with their consumers in the process, breaking their trust, and causing widespread cynicism over eco-labels and other certifications and standards meant to signal a company’s good corporate citizenship.
  • Green marketing myopia. Good marketing understands and satisfies customer needs first and foremost, and marketing sustainability is no different- only it also comes with environmental perks. Green marketing myopia occurs when these environmental benefits are overemphasised at the expense of customer needs, and unfortunately, as of now, few brands have succeeded in framing their sustainable value propositions beyond simply being sustainable- emphasising collective, planetary benefits instead of individual ones, and oftentimes forcing the consumer to compromise between functionality, cost efficiency, and environmental responsibility. When a socially responsible product comes at a fraction of the functionality and at double the cost- the choice is easily made.

The mainstream consumer often makes an easy target. However, the onus should not be on them to wade through the unattractive and lazy marketing, the greenwashing, and the systematic lack of resources they need to translate good intentions into appropriate purchases and behaviours. This is where the creative industry comes in. These are the creatives, marketers, and communication gurus that have sold us everything from washing machines to the American dream, and circularity is finally offering them the exciting opportunity to do away with traditional narratives and reinvent the way we communicate and think about those brands that are good for people, profit, and planet. Because where sustainability has long focused on doing less- emitting, producing, consuming less - circularity challenges us to do differently. It reimagines, rather than restricts, the way we consume, and opens up new venues for brands and consumers to interact and redefine their relationship. By prioritising access over ownership, for example, circular business models afford brands additional touch points to renew and strengthen their relationship with their customers. Akin to the connection library card holders build with their local library, leasing, rather than buying, provides brands the opportunity to build an emotional connection with their consumers unlike any other, ensuring continued loyalty from “an increasingly fickle audience”.

So how should we communicate circularity? How do we overcome these barriers, and how do we redesign the brand-consumer relationship to revolve around trust, and value?Change the narrative.And use storytelling to your advantage.The decision to return resources back to the supply chain starts with awareness. Many consumers, however, are still unaware of the embedded value of resources in clothing, and as such may never become the loyal suppliers brands will rely on in the future. Educating these consumers is critical to the transition, but it is also the opportunity for brands and marketers to finally unsubscribe from the guilt-inducing, patronising, and boring narrative that’s become a cornerstone of the way we talk of environmentalism. Circularity is exciting, and we need to translate the exciting possibilities it offers businesses into equally exciting creative campaigns and equally exciting stories. Perhaps best to look to for inspiration are those brands working towards destigmatising topics like menstrual health: Thinx and Yoni, for example, are both making great strides in opening up the dialogue and turning the tide over the long-standing and widely accepted narratives on periods- with humour, beautiful aesthetics, and content that educates, entertains, and doesn’t bore.Be bold, vulnerable, and transparent.And share both your ambitions and your limitations.As customer relationships continue to prove more valuable than traditional brand power, it is important for brands to learn how to lay bare both their accomplishments and their shortcomings. In a marketplace where “consumers demand transparency as the return on their emotional and economic investment in a brand”, authenticity and honesty in sharing a brand’s ambitions and successes as well as its limitations and failures is no longer optional if a brand is to regain and retain its customers’ trust. Some of the largest companies are already doing it- to varying extents. When TOMS’ original buy-one-give-one model came under scrutiny, for example, they commissioned a study to evaluate the true social impact of their business model, openly revising their strategy along the way. Apple recently committed to the bold objective of using 100% recycled materials to make its iPhones, Macbooks and other electronics products, openly admitting to a lack of a roadmap but holding themselves accountable to the public. Beyond brand value and consumer loyalty concerns, admitting to our weaknesses and owning up to our mistakes will allow for other key players to openly engage and contribute to the industry’s efforts to move towards circularity.

While honesty, authenticity, and transparency are all important values to commit to, ultimately, even those consumers who are aware of and acknowledge the need for their purchases to reflect their values won’t always compromise convenience and functionality for a guilt-free purchase. So what gives?Emphasise value.And put your consumer first.Change agency Futerra is very clear on this: the three driving factors that should never be compromised on are the functional, emotional, and social benefits a consumer derives from a product:“As a brand, whether you are trying to motivate behaviours or sell products, you need to start by asking “what’s in it for my customers?” Although vital, the question is an overlooked and under-explored component of successful behaviour change and marketing. By showing consumers what sustainability can do for them (rather than what they can do for sustainability), marketers can close the values-action gap a lot faster.”  – Solitaire Townsend (Futerra) and Elisa Niemtzow (BSR)In fact, some even argue that responsible products can only be successful if consumers perceive their attributes as better than those of conventional products. Rather than relying on consumers’ goodwill to pay a premium for less-than-functional products, brands should adopt a consumer-first approach in creating circular products, keeping their consumer needs in mind at every step of the loop.[hr]

Tickets to Beyond Green are now sold out, but you can still join the movement.

[cta link="http://circle-economy.com/how-do-you-go-beyondblahblah"]Learn more[/cta]

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How do YOU go #beyondblahblah?
How do YOU go #beyondblahblah?How do YOU go #beyondblahblah?Read more
How do YOU go #beyondblahblah?How do YOU go #beyondblahblah?
October 9, 2017
How do YOU go #beyondblahblah?

[embed]http://vimeo.com/236947996[/embed]It’s not all blah blah in the circular fashion world. Initiatives and efforts to move beyond intent already exist - brands, recyclers, collectors, sorters, and consumers are all actively taking a role in closing the loop in fashion.

LET'S SHOUT IT LOUD AND CLEAR!

Whether you’re a brand sourcing recycled content, a charity collecting post consumer textiles, or a consumer who buys secondhand clothing, we want to hear from you!Use the hashtag #beyondblahblah on Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter, and let the world know how you’re going beyond the blah blah and moving beyond intent to action. Be creative!We’ll be showcasing your solutions at Beyond Green, and the top 3 most innovative solutions will get a guaranteed spot at the event!**For Amsterdam residents only as we cannot cover transportation costs. Tag your post #ams so we know to take you into consideration!

What do we expect?

An answer to the question: how do YOU go beyond the blah blah in contributing to closing the loop in fashion? (on an individual level or at your company/brand's level!)

In what format?

Photos, videos, tweets, blogs- whatever medium works best for you!

When?

Preferably before October 20 (when Beyond Green takes place), but we welcome submissions at any time!

Why?

We want to shine a light on those initiatives, technologies, and good consumption practices that are contributing to closing the loop, beyond our own circle, and we want YOU to be part of this growing community of trailblazers.

Who can join?

Everyone is welcome to participate!

  • Brands/companies/organisations working on closing the loop in fashion
  • Recyclers or other innovators working on making technology a driving force for circular fashion
  • Designers incorporating circular design principles into their work
  • Students exploring circularity in their course
  • Consumers promoting conscious consumption habits
  • etc.

So tell us...

How do YOU go #beyondblahblah?

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What's in your closet? AUAS research aims to reduce the Dutch "Clothing Mountain"
What's in your closet? AUAS research aims to reduce the Dutch "Clothing Mountain"What's in your closet? AUAS research aims to reduce the Dutch "Clothing Mountain"Read more
What's in your closet? AUAS research aims to reduce the Dutch "Clothing Mountain"What's in your closet? AUAS research aims to reduce the Dutch "Clothing Mountain"
October 2, 2017
What's in your closet? AUAS research aims to reduce the Dutch "Clothing Mountain"

What exactly lies in the average Dutch closet? How often do the Dutch buy new items – and do they actually wear them? Or do new jackets and jeans just lie around in the bottom of their closets, gathering dust? The survey Measuring the Dutch Clothing Mountain; carried out by Amsterdam University of Applied Sciences (AUAS), explored these questions (and more) and found that a Dutch closet typically contains 173 items of clothing, of which at least 50 have not been worn at all in the past year. Because unnecessary purchases only worsen the impact of our shopping habits on the environment, the study also provides recommendations and best practices on how best to reduce and avoid these unnecessary purchases altogether.Little information is currently available on what 'The Clothing Mountain' in the Netherlands looks like. Figures from the GfK market research institute reveal that on average, the Dutch buy 46 new items of clothing, shoes, and accessories every year. The Dutch also throw out 40 items a year, according to figures from CSR Netherlands, Statistics Netherlands, and the Directorate-General for Public Works and Water Management. However, little information is available as to why they throw away the clothes they do; how they dispose of them; how early after purchase a piece of clothing will find its way to the incinerator; and in what condition (i.e. do the Dutch throw away clothes before the end of their useful life, or are their clothes so worn out that they can’t help but throw them away?)Field research creates new data and insights This lack of information led Saxion, CSR Netherlands, Sympany, Circle Economy, and Modint, to join AUAS, to undertake an initial exploration of the 'Dutch Clothing Mountain'. The researchers interviewed various textile waste collectors and sorters and analysed 200 kilos of clothing waste by type (man, woman, child, or unisex), colour, material composition, and condition (rewearable or non-rewearable). The researchers also carried out a closer inspection of the closets of fifty individuals. Though not representative of the entire Dutch population, the results nevertheless painted a revealing picture of the ‘average’ Dutch closet.

Graph

Underutilised and underappreciatedOf the 173 items in the average Dutch closet, roughly 50 items have not been worn in the past year. Of the forty items of clothing thrown away by each person every year, only nine are suitable for re-use. The rest either no longer fulfils the quality requirements necessary to be resold on the market or are not separately collected, and end up with the domestic waste.So where do we go from here? According to the researchers, we can significantly improve our relationship with the environment by reducing the volume of clothing we accumulate behind closed doors, and the study presents a number of low-threshold and effective recommendations to get there:

  • Increase awareness: both consumers and the fashion industry must understand that fewer items of clothing contributes to a better environment.
  • Encourage visualisation: Have consumers visualise their closets more often: what do I already own and what do I no longer need to buy?
  • Take a fresh perspective: Take a new look at your clothing. What kind of new combinations can you create with the items you already own?
  • Promote second-hand: Shopkeepers can add second-hand clothing to their offerings. By promoting second-hand purchases, items can be given a second life and will less frequently end up adding to the clothing mountain.

“We hope that the research will have a positive impact on the clothing mountain in the Netherlands”, says researcher Irene Maldini from AUAS’ Fashion, Research and Technology research group. Maldini is further studying the possibilities of reducing the Dutch clothing mountain for her doctoral research and considers these recommendations to be a great first step to effectively combat pollution of the environment.

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Circle Economy Launches Circle Built Environment Programme
Circle Economy Launches Circle Built Environment ProgrammeCircle Economy Launches Circle Built Environment ProgrammeRead more
Circle Economy Launches Circle Built Environment ProgrammeCircle Economy Launches Circle Built Environment Programme
September 28, 2017
Circle Economy Launches Circle Built Environment Programme

September 28, 2017 -  Circle Economy is excited to announce the launch of its Built Environment programme.On September 27, Circle Economy hosted a Deep Dive into the built environment, where key industry players in the Netherlands - including Wim Beelen, Renewi, Architecten Cie, and BeingDevelopment - explored the solutions and action plans that the sector can already start working on to move towards circularity. Insights throughout the session were shared on Twitter and will be published in a recap shortly.  

launch of its Built Environment programme

The built environment  sector is one of the largest consumers of raw materials in the world, accounting for almost 50% of total resource use, 40% of CO2 emissions, and 30% of all water use in the Netherlands, for example. As of now, a staggering 41 billion tonnes of raw materials is extracted every year to serve the global construction sector, and this number is only bound to increase in coming years. As (mega)cities in countries like China and India continue to rise, and with 75% of the world’s population expected to live in urban areas by 2050, sustaining our housing and infrastructural needs will demand massive amounts of building materials. No supply will match this growing demand, however, unless we deconstruct and reimagine the terms and conditions of our built environment. Building on the experience Circle Economy has gained in the textiles industry, financing circular business models, and implementing circularity across cities, the Built Environment programme will now translate the bold vision that Circle Economy has been developing alongside its partners over the last few years into even bolder solutions and implementation plans.

“Circular construction is beyond the start-up phase. Companies and cities now need  practical and scalable solutions to reshape and create a future proof built environment.” — Harald Friedl, CEO at Circle Economy

The new programme will focus on two key strategies:

  1. Preventing lock-in through thoughtful design
  2. Optimising (material value) through transformative re-design

Circle Economy and ABN AMRO recently published the report “A Future Proof Built Environment”, where they explored how circularity in the construction industry is beginning to take shape, identified examples of how circular business models are being applied to the industry, and highlighted circularity's potential to future-proof the built environment. You can download the report here.Learn more about the Built Environment programme and get in touch here.[hr]

Do you want to be part of the change?

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Circle Economy board member Louise Vet awarded the highest honour of the British Ecological Society
Circle Economy board member Louise Vet awarded the highest honour of the British Ecological SocietyCircle Economy board member Louise Vet awarded the highest honour of the British Ecological SocietyRead more
Circle Economy board member Louise Vet awarded the highest honour of the British Ecological SocietyCircle Economy board member Louise Vet awarded the highest honour of the British Ecological Society
September 25, 2017
Circle Economy board member Louise Vet awarded the highest honour of the British Ecological Society

The Netherlands Institute of Ecology (NIOO-KNAW) director and professor Louise Vet has been awarded the highest honour of the British Ecological Society. This Honorary Membership recognises exceptional contributions at international level to the generation, communication and promotion of ecological knowledge and solutions. Other people that currently hold such memberships include Dame Georgina Mace and Sir David Attenborough.The British Ecological Society (BES) announced in total 9 different awards and prizes for 'outstanding ecologists', with only two Honorary Memberships. The winners will be presented with their prizes during a ceremony held at the Society’s annual meeting in December, which will bring together 1,200 ecologists from 60 countries to discuss the latest advances in ecological research across the whole discipline.This year, the annual meeting will be organised in association with the European Ecological Federation, Gesellschaft für Ökologie (the Ecological Society of Germany, Switzerland and Austria), and NecoV. Louise Vet will be one of four world-renowned keynote speakers, according to the BES.Benefiting the communityThe BES stated that the winners' work has benefited the scientific community and society in general. Professor Sue Hartley, President of the British Ecological Society, said: “We have a long-standing history of supporting our academic community across the globe and recognise excellence at all career stages. Ecological knowledge can help to address some of the most pressing challenges human society is facing today.”“The winners of this year’s BES prizes have made outstanding contributions to their field and I congratulate them for their impressive achievements, which advance the science of ecology and its impacts”, Hartley added.Highest honourThe Honorary membership is the highest honour the BES gives, recognising exceptional contributions at international level to the generation, communication and promotion of ecological knowledge and solutions. Other people that currently hold Honorary Membership include Sir David Attenborough, Dame Georgina Mace, Sir Charles Godfray and Sir John Lawton.This time, the Honorary Memberships go to Professor Louise Vet and Professor May Berenbaum of the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign. Prof. Dr Louise Vet is a biologist with a broad interest in ecology and evolution. She is not only an excellent scientist but, especially during the last decade, is also strongly engaged with society to promote the great value of nature for our human economy and societal wellbeing.With the years, Vet became more and more engaged with society. Not only through her research link with biological control as a sustainable alternative to destructive chemical control in agriculture, but also much broader. One of her quotes is: ‘Destruction of biodiversity and ecosystems is a design problem. Let’s learn from nature and make use of 3.8 billion years of successful natural design to turn our linear economy into a circular one!’National face of ecologyAs chair of the Netherlands Ecological Research Network (a collaboration of all Dutch graduate schools and institutes working in the field of ecology, evolution, and biodiversity) and through her many outreach projects and performances in which she connects ecology with economy, Vet is called the ‘national face of ecology’, ‘the most sustainable professor’ and the ‘initiator of the circular economy in the Netherlands’ (TEDxAmsterdam 2009 and 2011).She serves as a role model, not only for women in academia but for all young ambitious scientists who want to contribute to a more sustainable and social society.This article was originally published on NIOO-KNAW.

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Celebrating Circularity at Davos
Celebrating Circularity at DavosCelebrating Circularity at DavosRead more
Celebrating Circularity at DavosCelebrating Circularity at Davos
September 14, 2017
Celebrating Circularity at Davos

Amongst the world leaders and multinational business executives who travel far and wide to attend the World Economic Forum Annual Meeting in Davos each year is an ever-expanding group of pioneers. Together, they are enabling new solutions to traditional challenges, and together, they are stepping out of the shadows to celebrate their successes on the global stage. For the past three years, The Circulars, an initiative of the World Economic Forum and the Forum of Young Global Leaders, has acknowledged the pioneering circular economy efforts of an array of innovative, new, and digitally disruptive enterprises, investors, foundations, leaders, and public sector organisations that are pushing the circular economy beyond established boundaries.Seen as a global movement that has the unique ability to provide answers to many of our planet’s most pressing challenges, the circular economy is now being welcomed into the spotlight, and those individuals and organizations that have taken the bold steps to adopt it are finally gaining the recognition they deserve.

Gabby Pieraccini, Head of Zero Waste and Circular Economy for The Scottish Government, accepts the The AB InBev Award for Circular Economy Governments, Cities and Regions from Tony Milikin, Chief Procurement Officer for AB InBev

Gabby Pieraccini, Head of Zero Waste and Circular Economy for The Scottish Government, accepts the The AB InBev Award for Circular Economy Governments, Cities and Regions from Tony Milikin, Chief Procurement Officer for AB InBev. Photo credit: The Circulars.As applications roll in each year, countless unique and inspirational stories of how individuals and organisations are making significant contributions towards driving awareness and understanding of circular principles across the globe are shared. Last year alone, the awards team received over 200 entrants from 37 countries, ranging from some of the world's largest multinationals to the most innovative start-ups, including:

  • Black Bear Carbon, a startup that has brought the circular economy to the tire industry by developing an innovative technology that extracts high-quality carbon black using end-of-life tires as feedstock, was the a runner-up for the Dell Circular Economy People’s Choice Award.
  • Fairphone, an electronics manufacturer that enables product life extension through its one-of-a-kind modular phone design that allows owners to open, repair and update their own phones was a finalist for the Young Global Leaders Award for Circular Economy SME.
  • Glasgow Chamber of Commerce (GCoC), which is taking forward the city’s commitment to make Glasgow a “Circular City of Excellence” with the findings from their Circle City Scan, was a highly commended applicant for the AB InBev Award for Circular Economy Governments, Cities and Regions.
  • Sitra, a Finnish, government-backed fund that supports the transition to an entirely circular economy through investments, alongside educational and societal transformational activities was a finalist for the CNBC Award for Circular Economy Investor.
  • Dutch Awearness, a textile chain management service that enables the provision of circular workwear collections to the European market, was highly commended for their application for the Ecolab Award for Circular Economy Digital Disruptor.

Now in its fourth year, the Circulars are anticipating applications from an even higher number of innovative individuals and organisations that are yet to be discovered. Are you a forward-thinking member of the circular economy movement? Submit your entry to one of the following categories before September 30th to celebrate your accomplishments!

  • Award for Circular Economy Leadership
  • Award for Circular Economy Multinational
  • Award for Circular Economy SME
  • Award for Circular Economy Public Sector
  • Award for Circular Economy Investor
  • Award for Circular Economy Digital Disruptor
  • People's Choice Award for Circular Economy Entrepreneur
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HEMA to host and sponsor Beyond Green 2017
HEMA to host and sponsor Beyond Green 2017HEMA to host and sponsor Beyond Green 2017Read more
HEMA to host and sponsor Beyond Green 2017HEMA to host and sponsor Beyond Green 2017
September 11, 2017
HEMA to host and sponsor Beyond Green 2017

Circle Economy and the Amsterdam Fashion Institute (AMFI) are delighted to announce HEMA as the lead sponsor and host for the 2017 edition of Beyond Green, held on October 20th at the HEMA headquarters in Amsterdam. Beyond Green is an annual symposium that uses the collective power of students and industry to design the future of fashion and tackle critical issues throughout the fashion system. This year, the theme is Beyond Blah Blah: 5 steps to circularity, where Circle Economy and AMFI will take both students and industry on a 5-step journey into circularity and introduce them to the latest tools, innovations, and know-how they need to challenge the status quo in the fashion and textiles world. HEMA, one of the biggest retailers in the Netherlands, is sponsoring and hosting the 2017 edition of the event. HEMA will also bring a sustainability challenge to the table in a half-day workshop, where select students will join forces with sustainability experts, entrepreneurs, and brands to design innovative solutions to real-life company challenges.

“HEMA is hosting Beyond Green - the annual symposium on the future of fashion – to stimulate knowledge about sustainable design. With a workshop to design out waste, HEMA is challenging the participants to take a deep dive into the world of one of the biggest retailers in the Netherlands and come up with circular solutions." - Eva Ronhaar, Head of Sustainability at HEMA

Beyond Green is a breeding ground for innovation and new connections. It brings the fashion industry and the world of circularity together in a new and dynamic way.

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Be the supply (Step 3)
Be the supply (Step 3)Be the supply (Step 3)Read more
Be the supply (Step 3)Be the supply (Step 3)
August 31, 2017
Be the supply (Step 3)

This is the third step of our 5-step plan to circularity. Catch up on step 1 and step 2 first.It is amazing to see such an explosion of interest in sustainability within the fashion industry. Over the past few years, the number of individuals and companies involved in the conversation is growing, and the level of knowledge is broader and deeper than ever. That's a really big deal -- it's a signal that industry transformation, seen for so long as a mere speck on the distant horizon, is getting closer. Take-back programmes are currently a hot topic, because getting clothing back from the consumer is critical to actually closing the loop and achieving circularity in the textile industry. Increasing the amount of used clothing collected is also high on the Global Fashion Agenda. Not surprisingly, the take-back discussion is focused around what can be done to reclaim more of the 20M tonnes of post consumer textiles that are landfilled across Europe and the US every year. In order to actually return the non-rewearable garments to the beginning of the supply chain, however, we must also understand how the system behind collection works. First, here is a high level overview of collection methods (options vary by location)Drop items into a public collection bin, donate them to a charity shop, use a brand / retailer in-store bin, or arrange for a residential pick up. Online second hand shops and other web-based re-commerce platforms or initiatives, like the Next Closet, will often send a prepaid shipping package to send items to their facility for sorting and resale.Garment leasing programmes such as MUD or Filippa K and libraries like LENA the Fashion Library own the items their customers wear, ensuring the return of these items once they are out of fashion or no longer wearable. These innovative business models have take-back built right in.Today the vast majority of used garment collections happen through bins operated by municipalities, private collectors, or non-profits and in-store donations at charity shops. Curbside programmes offering a home pick up service are also growing in popularity in some regions, and many brands and retailers are implementing in-store bins serviced by a textile collector / sorter. As time goes on, leasing and library models, as well as other digitally enabled collections models, are likely to increase.Next, let's clarify an incredibly important factorOnce used items are collected, real-life human beings evaluate, sort, and re-distribute them. This costs money, because any sustainable system must include fair pay and good working conditions for those who keep it running. Even charities, who essentially get items for free and may have low cost labor, incur expenses in handling items and putting them back into the hands of people who will use them again. Keep in mind, regardless of whether the organisations who manage used clothing collection systems are for or non-profit, they cannot consistently lose money and remain operational.This is the point where an understanding of how the system works becomes really critical, because a take-back initiative that enables closed loop (or circular) textiles must balance waste reduction and profitability. In other words, it cannot collect vastly more than it can sell, or it will eventually collapse. This makes creating sustainable take-back programmes tricky, because we must define and utilise the most effective methods of collection AND create more demand for the collected items.Data is the answerAn effective problem-solver knows identifying the problem and collecting and analyzing data must come before generating solutions. In order to build an effective, balanced take-back system, we must learn more about consumer behaviour and effective textile collection methods. We must also figure out exactly what is in the items that are collected so we can develop end markets to absorb the influx of them when collection rates increase.There has been some research done on the second hand industry by groups in the Nordics, France, UK, and the US. Unfortunately, the data sets either don't address collection and consumer behaviour, or they aren't comparable to one another. We need more clarity on what collection methods yield the highest number of garments per capita and how this varies between regions. We must also investigate what types of messaging, incentives, and other behaviours influence the decision to participate in a traditional collection system and / or brand sponsored take-back programme. This information will be extremely useful to plan, launch, and steer an effective textile collection model.The other half of the knowledge gap is understanding what is actually in the items that get collected. When it comes to recycling the non-rewearable stuff, or "recycling grade", most of the value depends upon the types of fibres, location of the goods, and how much work it will take to transform these materials into feedstocks for recycling technologies. This information is key to building up end markets for collected items and making take-back profitable. It's also a double bonus, because the data will help brands design new products for cyclability. Wrapping it upIncreasing used textile collections is not as easy as flipping a switch. However, doing some homework, becoming a project collaborator, and understanding the need for balance between waste reduction and profitability will truly accelerate our transition away from today's linear, wasteful system. It will also help you define the right take-back programme as your company strives to achieve its sustainability commitments. What you can do right nowBefore launching a new take-back initiative or refining an existing one, do some homework. Dig into the habits and interests of your own customers. Join a collaborative project focused on post consumer textile data collection. Understand your company's requirements and resources for launching and maintaining a take-back programme. Contact companies who manage take-back programmes, communicate the importance of collecting materials data, and see who is interested in working with you at this level to build a sustainable programme for the long term.This research will give you a lot of fantastic insight and information to prepare you to take the next steps to take-back. We strongly recommend collaborating with post consumer textile experts to analyse this data, probe a little deeper, and understand how your specific needs fit within the current and future systems. This will help you define a solution that is the best fit for your own resources, goals, and the future of the industry.[hr]

We’ll dig deeper into take-back systems at Beyond Green 2017. Until then, let us help you do your homework:

[cta link="http://circle-economy.com/beyondgreen2017"] Get involved with Beyond Green 2017[/cta]

Or sign up for our Textiles newsletter and get access to our “Top 10 questions to ask before starting a take-back initiative” worksheet!  

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