The creation of products and services requires the use of resources in the form of materials, energy, and labour. As a product is produced value is added as more materials, energy, and labour are utilised in the production process. Once the product reaches its end-of-use however, the value created during the production process is almost completely lost due to current waste management practices. Resources that could otherwise be recycled and reused are simply disposed of or incinerated. As a result, more raw materials are required in order to meet the ever growing product needs of consumers.
High value reuse within a circular economy restores products and preserves resources that have reached their end-of-use back to their original state to deliver the same or even improved functions. In this way, the value of products are preserved, reducing the level of risk and costs associated with raw material price volatility and scarcity.
The aim of high value reuse is to preserve the value of materials by:
Special thanks to our panelists who provided great practical examples of how they have integrated high value reuse strategies to their business models!
Circle Economy’s quarterly Deep Dives on sector or industry based topics are part of the membership offering. They are an excellent way to meet with other members, share insights, learnings and real life issues on dedicated topics, and contribute to creating business opportunities between members.
Interested in becoming a member?
[cta link="http://www.circle-economy.com/membership/" ]click here[/cta]
https://vimeo.com/167694724
“This is the first generation of people who really understand climate change, and the last ones who can really do anything about it.” - Former President of Ireland, Mary Robinson, quoted by Dilys Williams, Director of the Centre for Sustainable Fashion
For the three days, over 100 students, from 40 nations, gathered together in the dappled courtyards and halls of the The Royal Danish Academy to unpack and reinterpret the 17 UN Sustainable Development Goals. Their mission was to devise seven demands on the fashion industry, which would be presented at the Concert Hall, only two days later.
This was no easy feat, especially for a diverse group of perfect strangers. As facilitator for the circularity working group, Project Manager of Circle Economy's Circle Textiles Team, Gwen Cunningham saw, first hand, how they grappled to come to terms with these complex topics during the intensive workshop days. The driving questions emerged; can the fashion industry be a vehicle for change? How can we harness it’s spark, it’s creativity and it’s omnipresence, to address issues surrounding the environment, climate change, ethics and workers’ rights and welfare.
What rang clear was the total, unanimous agreement that the fashion industry was due for a major overhaul and that this next generation has no interest in inheriting the industry, as is. Their passion and unwavering clarity on the need for change kept the energy at fever-pitch and translated into powerful statements of intent, that industry judges called ‘presidential’, ‘eloquent’ and ‘purposeful’.
Picture by Gianluca Mazzarolo from GM Creative Studio
“Thank you for the work you do- the students’ ideas are changing the game” - Angela Snow, Senior Director, Global Design, Culture and Community, Nike
During a productive evening of workshops, networking, and panel discussions including Claire Bergkamp, Head of Sustainability and Ethical Trade at Stella McCartney, Angela Snow, Senior Director of Global Design, Culture and Community and Nike and Caroline Kahn Manager of Product Sustainability at Nike three core take-aways emerged:
Picture by Gianluca Mazzarolo from GM Creative Studio
“This idea of a sustainable ‘journey’ is killing us. It’s not a journey, it’s a mission’ - Linda Greer, Scientist, National Resources Defence Council
Fighting Summit fatigue, we forged our way to the largest and the last event of the week; the Copenhagen Fashion Summit. Over 1.200 attendees, from 52 countries joined, including senior sustainability leaders from G-Star, Nike, Filippa K, Stella McCartney, H&M, as well as noted individuals such as Suzy Menkes, Renzo Rosso and Vanessa Friedman.
With such a vast and specialised audience, the risk of preaching to the converted was high. Nike and Patagonia emerged as clear highlights, sharing commitments to circular solutions, with Hannah Jones confessing that she ‘never knew she would love waste so much!”.
Livia Firth was a solid favourite too, bravely calling attention to the ‘elephant in the room’; the fast fashion business model on which we still depend. “Because the impact, the pace, the volume and the economics pre-ordained by this current business model – will not get us to the point we want to get to: one where producers are in partnership with brands, rather than in servitude to them.”
Yet as her passionate voice reverberated from the walls of the concert hall, we were left wondering where is the discussion in these moments? What good is a lone speaker at a lonely podium, when what’s desperately needed, and repeatedly called for throughout the course of the day, is industry collaboration, critical conversation and clear consensus?
Indeed, the highlight was the rallying cry of the next generation who boldly demanded change, and outlined solution-driven actions. You can read their entire manifesto here. May we not only listen and learn but take action.
Beyond Green is an annual symposium on the future of fashion, organised by Circle Economy and the Amsterdam Fashion Institute. It uses the collective power of students and industry players to tackle critical issues throughout the fashion system; allowing for new and established minds to come together and push the boundaries of what we know, and realize what we dare to imagine.
'Many companies want to take the next step in sustainability, but are not sure how to go about it. Beyond Green is a very necessary model that not only inspires industry to take action, but demonstrates what that action could look like through real business examples, and interactive workshops with students. The event got my adrenaline pumping and opened my eyes to new possibilities for my company'.
- Kirsten Zwart, Queen of Sourcing, Kings of Indigo
Photo credit throughout: Nina Albada Jelgersma
This first edition, held on the 13th of April, explored ‘The pace of the industry’, and challenged our polarized conceptions of 'fast' and 'slow' fashion. Do these terms refer to speed or quality? Does 'fast' necessarily mean unsustainable? How can 'slow' turn a healthy profit? Must we choose between them?
The first to arrive, toting backpacks packed with laptops and notebooks, eagar fashion students entered the room padded in comfortable layers, clutching coffee cups from the nearby Boterham cafe. Industry leaders promptly followed, appearing a bit lighter and less caffeinated - a mix of local entrepreneurs, notable brands and seasoned sustainability experts. As the curtains closed, seats were taken, and silence fell on the now, anticipatory audience.
What followed was an inspirational start to the day; Helene Smits (Founder, Stating the Obvious) took to the stage to introduce the day’s three keynote speakers, each seeking to explore ‘The Pace of the Industry’, the theme of this edition of Beyond Green.
‘The rhythm is self-inflicted. We can step out of the current system. There are other options to explore’
- Gwen Cunningham, Project Manager Circle Textiles, Circle Economy
Setting the context for what’s to come, Circle Economy’s Gwen Cunningham, began by showing a series of abstract images from photographer Aaron Tilley. These adrenaline-inducing scenes perfectly captured the critical moment of history that we find ourselves in. She explained, ‘we are moving away from a past that doesn’t work for us anymore, and freefalling into a future that is not yet defined’. We are challenged to use the adrenaline of such a moment- to feel the urgency to act and get ahead of the change. Gwen went on to outline five moments in the past year that have brought the topic of pace to the surface; Li Edelkoort’s ‘Anti-fashion Manifesto’; the departure of Raf Simons and Alber Elbaz; the impact of climate change on retail sales; the hijacking of fashion week by social media and the alignment of the runway and retail in the United States. In doing so, she posited that the time for change is ripe in the fashion Industry, that new rules apply, and that we can be a part of their making.
“In order to speed up the changes necessary in our industry and make those changes as relevant as possible, we need to collaborate with all stakeholders, both existing and future. Beyond Green brings all relevant parties together, and puts the right questions on the table. Discussing future solutions with students gives both insight and inspiration. Their views and perspective can help us to steer changes in the right direction, and make them more strategic and pertinent. Together we can transform and shape tomorrow’s fashion industry.”
- Elin Larsson, Director of Sustainability, Filippa K
Next up Elin Larsson, Director of Sustainability at Filippa K took to the stage to outline the company’s circular approach, which can be viewed as a new definition of ‘slow’:
The most striking and inspiring about Filippa K, is their bold trial and error approach. Their holistic plan of action has been achieved through multiple well-calculated baby steps, that add up to an impressive whole. Larsson so rightly stated, inertia is the biggest danger of all, and ‘once you are aware, either you do something about it or not, but you are still responsible.’
“Fast might not be the worst thing about fast fashion- it’s just the way that we organise it”
- Martijn van Strien, Founder, Post-Couture Collective
Lastly, Martijn van Strien, Founder of Post-Couture Collective, shared his vision for a ‘faster than fast’ approach, stating boldly that ‘sometimes fast is just better’. Post-Couture Collective offers an alternative to today’s fashion system, fuelled by an open-source mentality and 21st century technology, the company creates minimalist pieces that are specifically developed as downloadable patterns, to be produced on a lasercutter and assembled by the end user. While such a system could presumably encourage high speed, impulsive production and consumption, it also involves consumers in the production process of a garment and this experience has the potential to incite ‘emotional’ durability.
Van Strien’s media fuelled presentation, carried attendees through three variations of the topic; fast (the current state), faster (made to order, shared ownership, and maker movements) and fastest (body scanning, 3D printing, laser cutting, and virtual reality). He believes that “these methods will eventually allow us to create something new everyday, without having any damaging effects.
In the afternoon workshops, industry and students worked alongside each other to design future models for specific segments of the market, while considering the aforementioned challenges and opportunities that come with fast and slow models of production and consumption.
“Beyond Green was exciting because of the very inspirational speakers and the mix of people from the industry and fashion students. I thoroughly enjoyed connecting with people with the same interest in sustainability and exchanging ideas and thoughts.”
- Jasmin Hammermayer, Fashion & Management student, AMFI
Expert external moderators and dedicated AMFI staff led vivid discussions and guided the participants using custom workshop materials. The result was a series of innovative business concepts ranging from the teen-oriented Vodaclothes, a fast fashion, lease-to-recycle brand included in your monthly phone bill to Wedenim, a members-only club, where basic, unisex denim is amended, treated and customized by local denim specialists, to tech-savvy Changeables, high-quality, durable clothing, equipped with downloadable nano printing technology.
To view the full length keynote presentations please use the video player below.
Special thanks to Nina Albada Jelgersma for capturing photos from this great event! Click on any of the photos below to check out the event photo gallery.
[gallery link="file" size="medium" ids="10450,10449,10448,10447,10446"]
On the 15th of March, .FABRIC and Circle Economy presented the intermediate results of a study on circular opportunities for the Flemish-Brussels metropolitan region during a workshop in the Bozar museum of Brussels. The project, commissioned by OVAM, aims at inspiring urban designers to take part in a larger program entitled Atelier BXL Productive Metropolis. The workshop was the third in a series of four so called ‘Urban Meetings’ of which the last will be held on June 2nd during the International Architecture Biennal Rotterdam (IABR) 2016.[caption id="attachment_10103" align="alignleft" width="212"]
Graphics made by .FABRIC and Circle Economy[/caption]The project Circulaire Ruimte - BXL started in December 2015 and is carried out by .FABRIC, Université Libre de Bruxelles and Circle Economy. The first phase of the project is focused on spatially mapping regional material flows – in particular construction waste, organic waste, water and freight – and identifying key impacts. For instance, the analysis shows that the value of organic waste is almost entirely lost due to incineration north of Brussels. The second phase consists of developing solutions based on circular economy strategies. For organic waste this could mean the introduction of new composting and biodigestion plants in and around the city – for example in Buda, an underused industrial site in the north of the city. Due to the mostly southern winds this location has more potential than sites in the south of Brussels.During the workshop on the 15th, the mapping and regional circular strategies were discussed amongst urban designers and external experts. New data, anecdotes, opportunities and challenges were added to finalize the maps. In the coming two months, the regional strategies will be translated into inspiring scenarios for ‘circularly’ redeveloping three specific sites in Brussels situated along the canal: Buda, Masui and Birmingham.Besides during the IABR 2016, the circular scenarios will be displayed this fall during an exhibition on sustainable urban development in the city of Brussels.
Office furniture is replaced on average every 7 years, most of which is disposed of with useful parts still intact. A significant amount of material assets are wasted with this take-make-waste business model. In 1950 Desko identified the value preservation opportunity within the industry’s current systems and set out to transform the current standard.
A ‘three tier buy back system’ was developed, meaning that the office furniture Desko sells enters a triple hand cycle. After a product has reached the end-of-use phase with its first owner, Desko buys it back at 10% of its initial cost. The furniture is then refurbished and sold back to the market for 50% of its initial price. The second time the product reaches the end-of-use phase; Desko buys back the furniture for 5% of its initial cost, refurbishes it and sells it once more to the market for 25% of its initial price. When the product reaches the end-of-use phase for the third and final time, Desko does not buy it back, but instead offers to dispose of the furniture and recovers certain parts that are still able to be refurbished or repaired for use in some of their other products.
“I see more and more companies asking for this. It’s truly a system change. We have a stronger relationship with our customers. We take the desks and chairs away…they don’t have to worry about it. And we can talk about what replacement items they need.” – Michael Kuiper, Desko
Desko’s innovative three tier buy back model not only extends its product’s lifetime it also has proven to be more profitable than the linear model that the industry currently holds as a standard. Additionally it aids in reducing the negative impacts that manufacturing companies have on the environment. For example, Desko’s Duo Slinger Desk generates 127 kilograms of CO2 when it is manufactured. With the three tier buy back system, the 127 kilograms of CO2 are spread over the product’s three lives, reducing the potential emissions by 93.5%, compared to if the product was made new for each of its owners.
As a pioneer and leader in circular furnishings for commercial office spaces Desko has encountered many potential customers who are very enthusiastic about their circular interior concept. However, it takes perseverance to integrate the concept of circularity into a client’s mind and many companies are not yet ready to let go of their linear processes. They continue to buy new furniture with short life spans instead of considering the remanufacturing or refurbishing options of pre-used products.
The refurbishment of furniture for reuse prevents redundant demand for virgin resources and significantly reduces the environmental impact of the product’s manufacturing processes. However, the sustainability loop is not yet fully closed, waste is still generated and not all customers participate in the buy-back scheme. One barrier is due to the way customers structure their finances. Desko’s next goals are to transition customers to a monthly payment plan or create new furniture rental programs to further the company’s journey to circularity.
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